Fashion is an ever-evolving industry and the last few years have seen significant shifts. Menswear is no exception to this and, in amongst all this change, have emerged a number of exciting new brands. Below are my picks of the best to have recently dropped.
TEXT: ADAM BRYCE
Eden Power Corp
Women’s fashion is packed full of new brands with sustainability at the centre of their design and production philosophy but menswear has been largely late to the game. Streetwear brand Noah have done a good job of being vocal of the ethical nature of their business and a few brands, like Stella McCartney, have transferred their women’s philosophies into their menswear collections. But Eden Power Corp is different, not in just determination to produce their clothing in a sustainable fashion but it’s wholly built around the notion of one single goal moving towards a better world. And the brand’s modern workwear aesthetic is on point.
Doublet designer, Masayuki Ino, won the esteemed LVMH prize in 2018 propelling the Japanese brand to the fashion world’s attention. It was perfect timing for the luxury streetwear label as the idea of high-end streetwear had recently become a part of the fashion vernacular. For me, it’s their luxury takes on classic streetwear items that impress the most, however, it’s their mismatched sub-culture references that they’re most-well known for. It’s worth noting too, that Doublet have, in fact, been around since 2012 but their LVMH win and subsequent Paris Fashion Week debut mean it’s only been a year or so since they’ve become a big name outside of Japan.
GmbH was founded in 2016 by designer Serhat Isik and photographer Benjamin Alexander Huseby. The Berlin-based collective brings together a refined reference of an underground club scene with workwear, the result of which make it one of my favourite brands in the world today. A cult-like following has followed in recent years, especially amongst fashion industry insiders.
European designer Achilles Ion Gabriel has established himself in the industry as one of the best footwear designers, working with the likes of Marni and Sunnei. The year 2019 saw the inception of his own label, Ion and the designer’s exceptional design talent is met with the highest attention to detail and craft in the creation of his footwear. Ion’s modern take on a pointed toe boot has become a big favourite of mine.
Founder and creative director Conley Averett, has brought his years of experience in product development for numerous New York-based brands to his own knitwear label, Judy Turner. The brand offers a new take on many a classic knitwear staple, always adopting hand-knit techniques in cementing its retro aesthetic. The way I see it, if you’re gonna buy a hoodie, you should buy one of this quality.
Another LVMH prize winner, Marine Serre brings a 90s aesthetic to the brand with a sense of refinement not often seen and it’s no coincidence that the french designer is touted as one of the biggest new names in fashion. Menswear was added to her already successful womenswear collections in 2019, and has been just as impressive. This is one of the more widely known names on this list and I’m sure only the beginning of a long and illustrious career for Serre.
Spencer Phipps was a menswear designer at Marc Jacobs and Dries van Noten. Disappointed at a lack of sustainable menswear offerings, he set out on his own to create a brand that would match its determination for sustainable production with relevant design. Phipps’ outdoor clothing take on 90s trends has been a hit since day one.
The idea of a wardrobe for men was founded by Margiela in the 90s with their ‘10’ collection and, in recent times, the concept has been continued by the likes of Our Legacy and, now, Sunflower. Modern, classic menswear with only the finest quality and tailoring is a lesson in ‘how men should dress’ and, while it’s reminiscent of Margiela’s glory years, that is, by no means, a bad thing. Pieces made to this level of perfection are collectable pieces that you will have forever.
While Sterling Ruby is not a new kid on the block, the high-profile artist, represented by Gagosian, is one of the biggest names in art. A name that was adopted as a fashion world hero off the back of his ongoing collaborations with Raf Simons. The creation of S.R.STUDIO.LA.CA was unexpected in someways but, at the same time, something a lot of menswear fashion fans had been desperately seeking. As expected, each piece is an artwork of its own account and priced almost in line with the artist’s artwork but worth the investment if you’ve got the coin.