Written by Adam Bryce
Photography by Larissa Hofmann for Heaven
A 25-year-old may just have rebooted Marc Jacobs with a bootleg hoodie.
It seems a little off to be criticising Marc Jacobs’ career but, here goes. There is no denying the New York designer’s monumental impact on that fashion industry however, think a little more and most of us will be in agreement that it peaked mid-90s/early-00s.
Those iconic Juergen Teller campaigns, his muse Sofia Coppola, those grunge looks (that had previously seen him lose his role at Perry Ellis), that Stephen Sprouse x Louis Vuitton collaboration — there was nothing cooler and no-one cooler than Jacobs. And then…
But 2020 is a new time, and Jacob’s budding relationship with influencer Ava Nirui has birthed a new sub-brand by Marc Jacobs called Heaven. A self-referential take on Jacobs’ glory years sees a 90s-inspired aethetic. Likened to a teenager’s bedroom, the look is a DIY cross between Petra Collins and a skateboarder’s closet.
Scroll through Heaven’s Instagram account and it’s plain to see where the inspiration comes from — early Jacob’s iconic runway moments, Winona Ryder circa early-noughties and Harmony Korine campaign imagery.
Take a browse at Heaven’s website and you’ll notice a nostalgic mix of graphic tees, hoodies and cargo pants with vintage books by Larry Clark, Richard Prince and a signed Virgin Suicides DVD (signed by Coppola, of course). In a moment of potential accidental irony, I spotted, top left, a link that reads ‘BACK TO MARC JACOBS’. And yup, this is the Jacobs I wanna see.